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Subject HOW TO: Remove freeze plugs and port coolant gallies
     
Posted by KongZTT GT28RS MD on May 04, 2013 at 10:15 PM
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This isn't really much of a tutorial.. but I figured it would be helpful to some who have never done it..

Here are the tools needed to remove freeze plugs.

-Hammer

-Bigger sized punch (1/4")

-Pliers.. (vice grip pliers would work well too.. but this is what I had laying near me)

-Place the punch on the LIP flat edge of the freeze plug. Hit it firmly with hammer. DO NOT move spots where you hit.. if you do.. you can cause the freeze plug to fall into block (ask me how I know!.. I spent forever trying to use a prybar to bend up the freeze plug that fell inside of block to remove it)

-I suggest using a hammer with some weight (a 3lb mini sledge would work great here)

-Hit the freeze plug until it starts spinning a bit/enough to grab with pliers to remove it.

-Repeat the same to all the plugs on the block.. There are 12 on each block.. Some on sides.. front/rear and top ('V') of block

-Check out how restrictive the casting flash is on this block! The rear two cylinders #5 and #6 are almost completely closed off! Now I see why many get detonation in those cylinders first!

The rear cylinders had nearly the size of a pencil eraser in space! Some blocks are better than others.. but geesh.. if ever have your engine apart .. make sure you do this!

-The tools I used were a pneumatic angle grinder to accept 1/4" shanked bits. Using a straight style grinder would have been easier but I couldn't find it

-misc carbide burrs (Ball, cylinder, triangle) and two custom 12" long burrs I bought from a company a few years ago called Boggs Tool. Which worked perfectly. IIRC the custom long bits were about $30

-Few flapper discs to clean up some areas.

-Safety glasses

Main thing here is take your time.. use your best judgement.. Dont go all craYY with the porting.. you could break into the cooling channels.. Just be smart and open them up and smooth out castings.

This took me about an hr.. I believe shops charge around $150 to do this.. which is crazy.


To reinstall NEW freeze plugs.. put some high temp sealant (copper etc) that is designed for cooalnt aorund the lip (contact areas) of the new freeze plug.

I used a 3/4" craftsman (regular) deep socket (3/8" drive) and a hammer. Tap it in square untill you reach the depth you need (how they were before.. The lip should just barely be past the flat edge of coolant freeze plug port.) (yes I know that isn't a new freeze plug.. I just snapped it so you can see how I did it)

~~~ Sig starts below
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NO, This picture is not photoshopped.








AIM:Shawn300zxTT

"-Any closeups on the nuts? - zboost(tx) 19:17:53
08/08/05
-Not really something you want to ask another man
about... (n/m) - LordZ 19:24:00 08/08/05"

"I just took 45 min and scrubbed the heck out of my rear"
teambushido(San Diego, CA) 19:24:51 12/11/04

-1991 Stage _ TT 5spd (Upgraded to hell and back)
Custom widebody

-2000 Nissan Altima SE (Daily driver)
-1990 Midnight blue 2+2 NA 5spd. (conversion soon :)
-2001 Ford F-150 Crew cab, 5.4 Triton v8.. Tow bitch
-2004 Honda CBR 600RR (Candy blue, FOR SALE)
-1990 Cherry Red Pearl ,Auto Coupe (Parts car)

Gone..
-1990 Super White 2+2 Na Stage 3 Auto (Deceased :( )
-1990 11 Sec Eagle Talon Tsi AWD, (SOLD!)
-1997 Acura 2.2 CL, 5spd. Daily Driver.. (black ice victim
:(

     
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